Gas non-condensing
The traditional tankless type. It uses a stainless steel vent that carries hot exhaust outdoors and needs a gas line sized for the unit. It is common and well understood, and the vent is more costly than on a condensing unit.
Residential tankless water heater installation
A tankless heater saves floor space and heats on demand, but it asks more of your gas line, vent and wiring than a tank. Learn what the job involves, how to size the unit and what to ask, then call to reach a local Aurora installer.
The basics
A tankless installation mounts an on-demand heater on a wall and connects it to water, gas or power, a vent and, on condensing models, a drain, then tests it so it delivers steady hot water.
Tankless water heater installation Aurora homeowners plan is not a copy of a tank swap. A tank sits on the floor, holds a reserve and often reuses the old vent. A tankless unit hangs on a wall, heats only when a tap is open and needs the right gas line, venting, power and water connections to do it. Because of that, the planning matters as much as the labor.
A full job covers choosing and sizing the unit, running or upgrading the gas line, installing the vent, adding isolation valves so the unit can be flushed, connecting water and power, installing a condensate drain on condensing models, setting the unit for altitude, and a start-up test. The installer also arranges the permit and inspection where required.
If you are weighing a swap from a tank, our tankless water heater replacement guide covers that decision, and our general water heater installation page explains the steps that apply to any type. This page covers what is specific to tankless.
People move to tankless for floor space, for hot water that does not run out in the middle of a long shower and for a unit that heats only on demand. It is not the best fit for every home, and the extra gas, venting and sizing work can add to the job, so the benefits are worth weighing against what your house needs.
When to install
Eight situations lead Aurora homeowners to choose tankless. Each one changes what the installation involves.
A new home, a basement finish or a second bathroom can be planned around a tankless unit from the start, with the gas line and vent routed once.
A household that outgrew its tank may like on-demand heat, as long as the unit is sized for the busiest hour.
A wall-hung unit frees the footprint of a tank in a closet, garage or basement.
When a tank is near the end of its life, replacing it with a tankless unit is a chance to change type.
A tankless heater does not keep a tank of water hot all day, which some households value.
A change of fuel is a good time to rethink the heater, though it adds gas or electrical work.
A small point-of-use unit near a far fixture can shorten the wait for hot water, though it is usually in addition to a main heater.
An aging heater flagged by an inspector can be replaced with a new tankless unit.
Pro tip
Get a site visit before you commit. The one thing that surprises tankless buyers most is the gas line or the vent, and a technician can see in minutes whether your home is ready or needs upgrades.
Types
Tankless heaters differ by fuel and by how they vent. The right one depends on your gas supply, your electrical capacity and where the unit will hang.
The traditional tankless type. It uses a stainless steel vent that carries hot exhaust outdoors and needs a gas line sized for the unit. It is common and well understood, and the vent is more costly than on a condensing unit.
Captures more heat from the exhaust, which makes it cooler, so it can use plastic venting. It makes acidic condensate that must drain to a proper drain, usually with a neutralizer. It often costs more up front and uses less gas.
Needs no vent or gas line, but it draws a lot of power, so it may need a large dedicated circuit and a service panel with room. It suits small loads or point-of-use jobs more often than whole-house ones in cold climates.
A small unit placed near one fixture, such as a far bathroom. It serves one location and is often an add-on to a main heater, not a replacement.
The diagram shows the connections a typical gas unit needs. A condensing model adds the drain, and an electric model replaces the gas and the vent with a large power supply.
Sizing
Tankless sizing runs on two numbers: the flow rate you need in gallons per minute, and how much the water has to be heated.
A tank is sized by its volume. A tankless unit is sized by how much hot water it can deliver each minute at your chosen temperature. Add up the fixtures that might run at the same moment, then check that the unit can heat that flow from your coldest incoming water.
| Fixture | Typical flow | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Shower | Roughly 1.5 to 2.5 gallons per minute | Check the fixture label, since low-flow heads use less |
| Kitchen faucet | Roughly 1.5 to 2.2 gallons per minute | Often runs while a dishwasher or washer is going |
| Bathroom sink | Roughly 0.5 to 1.5 gallons per minute | Low draw, but it adds up with others |
| Dishwasher | Roughly 1 to 2 gallons per minute while filling | Many draw intermittently |
| Washing machine | Roughly 1.5 to 3 gallons per minute while filling | Depends on the model and the cycle |
These flow figures are typical ranges, so check your own fixtures. The temperature rise is the gap between your incoming water and your set temperature. As an example only, if cold water arrives at 45 degrees Fahrenheit and you want 120, the unit must lift it 75 degrees. Incoming water in an Aurora winter is colder than in summer, so a unit that looks right on paper in July can fall short in January. Size for the cold months.
An installer can do this calculation from your fixtures and your coldest water, and should tell you honestly if one unit cannot serve a very busy household. Some larger homes use two units, or a recirculation loop, to keep hot water at the far taps.
Code and site needs
Tankless heaters ask more of a home than a tank. Ten items decide whether a house is ready.
Warning
Gas and venting work on a tankless heater is not a do-it-yourself job. An incorrect vent or gas connection can release carbon monoxide or gas. If an alarm sounds or you smell gas, leave the building and call 911 or your gas utility.
Install day
The process follows a clear order. Knowing it helps you spot a rushed visit.
The installer looks at the gas line, the vent route, the power, the drain and the wall. They add up fixtures, check the coldest incoming water and size the unit.
You get the unit, the labor, the gas and vent work, the valves, the condensate drain, the permit and the haul-away of any old heater in writing.
If a tank is being removed, it is drained and disconnected. Gas, water and power are shut off to the work area.
The gas line is upgraded if needed, the vent is installed, and a condensate drain or neutralizer is connected on condensing units.
The unit is mounted on the wall, and the isolation valves and water lines are connected. Power and any controls are wired in.
Air is purged and the lines are leak-tested. The gas connection is checked, the unit is fired at several flows and the altitude and temperature settings are confirmed.
You see the valves, the display and how to read a code. You get the warranty, the maintenance schedule and the permit and inspection plan.
Cost
Costs vary by provider and by home. Here is what moves the price and how to keep it sensible.
Tankless water heater installation cost depends on the unit, the labor and the work around the unit. A tankless unit usually costs more than a standard tank, and a home that needs a bigger gas line, a new vent or a drain adds more. Weigh that up-front price against years of energy use and the comfort you want.
| Price driver | Why it matters | How to keep it down |
|---|---|---|
| Type and size | Condensing, non-condensing and electric units differ in price, and larger capacity costs more. | Size to your real busiest hour. |
| Gas line | A larger line or a longer run adds materials and labor. | Ask whether the existing line can serve the unit. |
| Venting | Stainless or plastic venting, length and turns affect the price. | Place the unit close to an outside wall where practical. |
| Condensate drain | A condensing unit needs a drain and often a neutralizer. | Choose a location near a drain. |
| Electrical | A new circuit or panel work adds cost on an electric model. | Check panel capacity at the site visit. |
| Permit and inspection | These may be in the quote or billed on their own. | Ask for each as a separate line. |
| Warranty | Longer coverage can raise the quote and lower your risk. | Compare what is covered, not just the length. |
Some efficient models may qualify for manufacturer, utility or government incentives. Programs change and have conditions, so ask the installer and your utility what is offered now rather than assuming.
After the install
Tankless units reward care. A few habits protect the warranty and the heat exchanger.
Descaling is the single most important job. Our tankless water heater maintenance and tune-up page explains how it works, and if a fault shows up, the tankless water heater repair guide covers the codes.
Choosing an installer
Tankless installation is a specialty. Six questions help you find a pro who does it regularly.
The answers come from whichever provider picks up, so ask each one the same questions. You can learn more about water heater help in Aurora, CO on the homepage, and the related pages cover repair, replacement and care.
Common questions
Straight answers to what homeowners ask before they go tankless.
The price depends on the unit and its capacity, the gas line, the venting, the condensate drain, the electrical work and the permit. A home that needs a bigger gas line or a new vent costs more than one that is ready. Ask for a written quote that lists each item.
A straightforward swap can take most of a day, and a job that needs a new gas line, vent or drain can take longer. The installer can give a window once they have seen the home.
Often yes. A tankless burner draws more gas than a tank when it fires, so the line and the meter must carry it along with your other gas appliances. A site visit and a gas load check settle the question.
Add up the fixtures that may run at once to find the flow rate, then check that the unit can heat that flow from your coldest incoming water. Size for the cold months, not the summer, and ask the installer to confirm the figures.
Most cities require a permit and an inspection for a water heater, mainly because of gas, venting and electrical work. Ask the installer who pulls it and whether the inspection is included, or check with the city's permit office.
A condensing unit captures more heat from the exhaust and can use plastic venting, but it needs a condensate drain and often costs more up front. A non-condensing unit is simpler to drain and uses stainless venting. The best choice depends on your home and your goals.
The job involves gas, venting, power and pressurized water, and mistakes can cause leaks, fires or carbon monoxide exposure. Many areas require a permit and licensed work. Hiring a licensed installer is the safer path.
Yes. Mineral scale builds in the heat exchanger and the inlet filter clogs, so most makers call for a regular descale and filter clean. The installer should fit isolation valves so the unit can be flushed.
Ready to go tankless?
Share the fuel type, the location and how many bathrooms you have, and get connected with a local pro who can quote the job.
(720) 731-0548